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  • Would this work?

    I am going to be getting a new amp for my ULW-10 very shortly and want to reuse the amp that is in the box now for something else. The amp functions perfectly but has "air leaks" out of some of the knobs. In the existing box, it's really annoying to hear the air escaping but I figured I could reuse the amp with a new sub and seal the amp off from the air chamber and solve the problem.

    Ok, well now that I know that I can seal it off, where can I use it? I don't really have another 'extra' system that needs a sub so I was thinking of how I can 'integrate' this 'new' sub into my Living Room system (my main ht system). I have dual MFW's that do amazingly well so I'm not really gonna add many db's to it while probably muddying up the sound a bit. Well, what if I do an MBM style product ... with a twist. So I thought about picking up a Car Audio sub that is quick (something to keep up with the driver on the MFW) and will produce very "active' bass in the 30-80 or so hz range and bandpassing it from 30-80hz utilizing the low pass crossover built into the ULW amp and a passive 30hz up high pass filter. Research will dictate which driver would work best but right now I'm thinking a JL Audio 10w3 coupled with the 500w amp of the ULW would do VERY well.

    So ... what kind of enclosure would work? I can't put anything to the back of the couch as that's a walkway as is the right of the couch but the left is fine. Ok, well how do I distribute that sound as 'evenly' as possible to all inhabitants of the couch? Well, what if I make the enclosure for the driver 'sealed' but ported? Keep the driver in a sealed enclosure and add a long 'port' at the front of the driver that goes along the floor then shoots back up into the base of the couch. This is my idea ... roughly:



    What do you think? Would it work or am I totally spinning my wheels for potentially no benefit? I really just want to add rumble and impact to the experience as the MFW's have great slam already. I don't want to do bass shakers or anything like that as I want to utilize the very good amp I already have.

    Ok, now tear it apart :D

  • #2
    Wish I had something constructive to add. It sounds good to me but then again I know nothing about building subs. Have fun with the project anyway!
    Originally posted by dvenardos, it mad me laugh and now it's my sig.
    Originally posted by dvenardos
    Your right, the TCA sub is crap, it couldn't possibly compete with an MFW-15 or a name brand 12" sub, and Jack and Ray are just schilling for their boss. We should know better than to listen to what those bozos have to say.

    Comment


    • #3
      Skeeter,

      I do not know the answer to the box question, but had an alternative idea - how about using the amp to power a tactile transducer?
      Randy
      Wilson Sophia 2/BAT VK-600SE/BAT VK-52SE/BAT VK-5DSE/Fathom 113 x2/Emotiva DMC-1 and MPS-1/Oppo BDP-83 SE/Exact Power/SMS-1 bass equalizer

      Comment


      • #4
        Its tough enought to properly intergrate two identical subs, but adding a 3rd that's nothing like the other two would be remarkably difficult if not impossible.

        For example, how are you going to time align the proposed sub to the two other ones?

        Comment


        • #5
          Why not just seal the air leaks in your existing box with some caulk or something?

          JimP, why can't he just use the phase control?
          Selah MF7 L/C/R | ELT525 Surrounds | Outlaw LFM-1C Sub | 42" plasma | Wii/Xbox360/PS3 | HK AVR-247

          Comment


          • #6
            I could use the phase control to integrate the timing so that wouldn't be that big of an issue I wouldn't think.

            Regarding sealing the air leaks, from what I've heard and what Joslin has told me, the air is leaking out of most of the knobs and the RCA jacks. I'd rather just get a new amp and be able to utilize this one for another project.

            Randy, I don't really want to use tactile transducers party because I've never used them before and this is more of a unique project that if I can pull it off I think would be pretty cool.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by skeeter99
              I could use the phase control to integrate the timing so that wouldn't be that big of an issue I wouldn't think.

              Regarding sealing the air leaks, from what I've heard and what Joslin has told me, the air is leaking out of most of the knobs and the RCA jacks. I'd rather just get a new amp and be able to utilize this one for another project.

              Randy, I don't really want to use tactile transducers party because I've never used them before and this is more of a unique project that if I can pull it off I think would be pretty cool.
              Have you ever tried time aligning multiple subs with different tuning?

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by JimP
                Have you ever tried time aligning multiple subs with different tuning?
                Nope :D That's why I'm seeking help :woo:

                If it's gonna be a giant PITA but still doable I still might want to try it, just for the experience.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by skeeter99
                  Nope :D That's why I'm seeking help :woo:

                  If it's gonna be a giant PITA but still doable I still might want to try it, just for the experience.
                  The fun factor can not be ignored. :)

                  I spent months trying to get two identical subs (manufactured years apart) and a MBM to play well together and finally gave up. I didn't find out till later that the manufacturer of the sub went through several iterations of drivers and who knows what else over the production life of the sub. Then throwing the MBM into the mix was like trying to align 3 different subs. I was dead in the water and didn't know it.

                  You might get very lucky and have everything fall in place. If you got the time and would like to give it a try, go for it. I'm more in the school of trying to keep things simple as possible. I'm down to exactly 1 sub (a nice one) and found that when properly intergrated it works out better than trying to juggle multiple independent variables that only rarely if ever work out.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Don't they request you send the old amp back, I did???
                    There's a fine line between gardening and Madness.
                    -Cliff Clavin

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by etcarroll
                      Don't they request you send the old amp back, I did???
                      They haven't for any of the MFW amps but haven't heard on these. I hope not, it'll ruin my fun plans :hissyfit:

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by skeeter99
                        I am going to be getting a new amp for my ULW-10 very shortly and want to reuse the amp that is in the box now for something else. The amp functions perfectly but has "air leaks" out of some of the knobs. In the existing box, it's really annoying to hear the air escaping but I figured I could reuse the amp with a new sub and seal the amp off from the air chamber and solve the problem.

                        Ok, well now that I know that I can seal it off, where can I use it? I don't really have another 'extra' system that needs a sub so I was thinking of how I can 'integrate' this 'new' sub into my Living Room system (my main ht system). I have dual MFW's that do amazingly well so I'm not really gonna add many db's to it while probably muddying up the sound a bit. Well, what if I do an MBM style product ... with a twist. So I thought about picking up a Car Audio sub that is quick (something to keep up with the driver on the MFW) and will produce very "active' bass in the 30-80 or so hz range and bandpassing it from 30-80hz utilizing the low pass crossover built into the ULW amp and a passive 30hz up high pass filter. Research will dictate which driver would work best but right now I'm thinking a JL Audio 10w3 coupled with the 500w amp of the ULW would do VERY well.

                        So ... what kind of enclosure would work? I can't put anything to the back of the couch as that's a walkway as is the right of the couch but the left is fine. Ok, well how do I distribute that sound as 'evenly' as possible to all inhabitants of the couch? Well, what if I make the enclosure for the driver 'sealed' but ported? Keep the driver in a sealed enclosure and add a long 'port' at the front of the driver that goes along the floor then shoots back up into the base of the couch. This is my idea ... roughly:



                        What do you think? Would it work or am I totally spinning my wheels for potentially no benefit? I really just want to add rumble and impact to the experience as the MFW's have great slam already. I don't want to do bass shakers or anything like that as I want to utilize the very good amp I already have.

                        Ok, now tear it apart :D
                        Hi skeeter,

                        One hurdle is that the amp is set to match the response of the small sealed 10" sub. You would ideally want to measure the frequency response of the amplifier before you plan out something new. To really get something useful from it, get REQW running and figure out the deficiencies of the system first. After that solutions stop being guesses. There are also likely some very suitable drivers available from Parts Express that might be cheaper or better suited, depending on what you are looking to accomplish. Another important question is if you have any EQ in the system to work with?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Mark Seaton
                          Hi skeeter,

                          One hurdle is that the amp is set to match the response of the small sealed 10" sub. You would ideally want to measure the frequency response of the amplifier before you plan out something new. To really get something useful from it, get REQW running and figure out the deficiencies of the system first. After that solutions stop being guesses. There are also likely some very suitable drivers available from Parts Express that might be cheaper or better suited, depending on what you are looking to accomplish. Another important question is if you have any EQ in the system to work with?
                          Mark,

                          How do you measure the FR of the amplifier?

                          Unfortunately, I don't have an EQ (aside from Audyssey) nor do I have a laptop to run REQW on. I think you need to come up to Seattle so you can get it all figured out for me :jiggy:

                          I have thought about PE as well, just haven't looked there yet. I knew the JL due to my previous experience with that driver.

                          I have considered just bagging this idea, building a sono sub for the basement with the ULW amp and using the ULW and new amp up in my bedroom. Seems like a waste for that sub, though, it really is a rocking little guy. It was shaking the whole house while my son was watching Star Wars over the weekend!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Decided to scrap this idea. Going to do a Sono Sub instead in a different room. Here's the thread: http://www.tweakcityaudio.com/forum/...read.php?t=835

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