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  • 12v Trigger Block?

    My Onkyo 709 has a Zone2 12V trigger which I hijack to turn my Emotiva XPA-3 on and off. Now that the VS18.1 and associated Dayton SA1000 are installed..... I find myself short a trigger. The only "Trigger" block I've seen is one that Emotiva makes, the ET-3.

    Does anyone have any experience with trigger distribution blocks? It's not urgent, but I'd like to consider the right choice for the future so that I can expand easily.

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Not sure if this helps, but there is a trigger on the back of the Dayton.

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    • #3
      I'd wonder if a simple cable splitter wouldn't work?

      I use a stereo headphone cable, which is much cheaper than the mono one required, and I'm sure you can get a stereo splitter for cheap also. I wouldn't think the power draw is much from the amps and would overload the Onkyo.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by tesseract
        Not sure if this helps, but there is a trigger on the back of the Dayton.
        Right! Which is what i need to.. trigger... The Zone2 trigger on the back of the Onkyo signals the XPA3 to turn itself on when I send it the "Zone 2 Power ON" command. Essentially, I need to "split" that trigger, so I can take it into both the XPA3 and the Dayton. I assume splitting it is a no-no, so I'm hoping someone has some experience with 12v trigger distribution.

        I guess I should say I'm a bit of a control freak. I bought an iPad and setup iRule with Global Cache equipment to control the entire system. Most all of the equipment is either network controlled, IR bugged or automated somehow. Making that Dayton turn on and off when it's supposed to automatically satisfies my OCD. :biglaugh:

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        • #5
          Originally posted by sbdman
          I'd wonder if a simple cable splitter wouldn't work?

          I use a stereo headphone cable, which is much cheaper than the mono one required, and I'm sure you can get a stereo splitter for cheap also. I wouldn't think the power draw is much from the amps and would overload the Onkyo.
          I use the stereo cables for the remote control IR ports too! I guess I should dig through my drawers (hah) and see if I have a 3.5mm splitter somewhere... Maybe it'll work. :)

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          • #6
            A splitter should work, the units just need a signal to turn on and off. Why not call Dayton and ask if this will fly?

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            • #7
              I saw a thread that was semi related, but pertained to car audio - talked about two power amps that required 125 mA, and the amp with the trigger output supplied 500 mA. Howerever, it mentioned that the older the triggered amps were, the more they probably needed to switch on.

              I looked at my 5007 owners guide, and it doesn't mention the current supplied, just that they are 12V - doesn't help.

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              • #8
                I have used the Emotiva trigger block and still have it. It can work it two methods I believe, one with a 12v in signal to split out and the other using a powered switch. I only used mine on a powered switch with my Pio VSX-1017 as it doesn't have a 12v trigger.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by sbdman
                  I'd wonder if a simple cable splitter wouldn't work?

                  I use a stereo headphone cable, which is much cheaper than the mono one required, and I'm sure you can get a stereo splitter for cheap also. I wouldn't think the power draw is much from the amps and would overload the Onkyo.
                  I've tried splitting my trigger cables and it does not work! I must have tried doing it with like 6 different assorted cables. In fact, I tried doing this when I got my dual VS18's with the Dayton SA1000 amp. When doing it this way, my subs would turn on but for whatever reason there was no bass going through to the drivers despite having everything hooked up correctly. I thought something was wrong with my subs. :( So I unplugged all my split trigger cables, and just plugged everything in directly to the wall outlets to make sure everything worked ok, and voila! My subs started pounding away. After that experience I decided to go with the Emotiva trigger block for a paltry $35 shipped is it? And it works great! Emotiva makes awesome bank for your buck stuff.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks all! I think I'll take the Emo route, as it would give me one more port to expand to in the future. I found a splitter yesterday and tried using some spare 3.5mm cables and didn't have any luck.

                    Much appreciated. :)

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                    • #11
                      Emotiva 12v trigger block installed and functional! Best $30 I've spent in awhile (except for at that one place, but that's not forum appropriate!). Works great and gives me one more trigger slot for the future or to daisychain.

                      Now that the Dayton SA1000 is set to "Trigger" and not "ON", I'm saddled with that power up "thump" people have mentioned. Annoying, but apparently nothing to worry about!

                      Thanks again for the feedback from everyone.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by XARiUS
                        Emotiva 12v trigger block installed and functional! Best $30 I've spent in awhile (except for at that one place, but that's not forum appropriate!). Works great and gives me one more trigger slot for the future or to daisychain.

                        Now that the Dayton SA1000 is set to "Trigger" and not "ON", I'm saddled with that power up "thump" people have mentioned. Annoying, but apparently nothing to worry about!

                        Thanks again for the feedback from everyone.
                        I've had the power up thump with various gear. I don't think there is a way around it. Happens with my 18.1 with plate amp and also with my EP2500/eD combo.

                        Glad you are satisfied though!

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