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Currently building boxes. More updates later
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Looking forward to the updates. :thumbsup: -
Can't wait to see another set of Neos.Comment
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Veneer came in yesterday. A Little Bird's Eye Maple. Also got like 20 sq, feet of some boring stuff to practice my veneering skills with. I am in the process of moving so excuse the lack of pictures at this point.Comment
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I am a bad poster :dizzy:
Ordered the kit and a sheet of no rez yesterday. Hopefully it comes this week!:clapper:
Pictures soon. I promise!!Comment
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:cool:
What veneer method are you going to use?Comment
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The gameplan is as follows.
Measure the box and cut with a straight edge/razor.
Contact cement the sides.
Cut 2 pieces of scrap wood at 45 degree angle.
Clamp them on either side of the veneer and sand the veneer edge.
Glue the top and bottom.
then front so when looking there is no seams visible from front.
for finishing I am sanding veneer lightly with 400 grit.
Wipe and apply pre-finish.
Lightly sand with 400
Wipe down
Apply polyurethane
Lightly sand with 400
Wipe down
Apply polyurethane
etc. for 6 coats.
I want the speakers to have that wet look that will make the birds eye look so delicious.Comment
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Just some random advice.
I've never worked with birds eye maple but you may want to sand it with 180/220 first and then finish with 320. Veneer is thicker than one may think and I even use a power sander on it. A perfectly smooth surface doesn't pick up poly as well as a slightly rough surface though 320 will make it smooth to the touch if you want supper smooth. I would personally leave it at 220 sanded and worry about making the poly smooth.
If you can get the surface to be perfectly flat gravity with smooth things out. Very thin coats are key to a good finish and you don't want to sand after each coat as you can sand the coat right off. Unlike veneer, varnish is that thin. A scotch bright pad works well in between coats. After 3 or 4 coats you can hit it with a 400 pad, steal wool or a rough pad. You may also want to look for some ArmRSeal oil/urethane finish. It is still a polyurethane coat but it is clear and dries real smooth. The oil in the urethane gives a good wet look. May also want to think about using diluted shellac with some dye in it.
Much better presentation of what I am talking about here. Pretty good site with lots of good tips on it.
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pic of cabinet...
...and the veneer
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Took the time yesterday to cut the no rez and get it in.
Anyone have any idea what the diameter hole that needs to be cut for the binding post assembly? It's not on the diagram. Sent Danny an email but haven't heard back yet.
Edit: Got that situated so will be finishing up the boxes. I tested finishing some scrap veneer that was left over and it is going fairly well.Comment
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That veneer is awesome, going to look sweet when you are done. :thumbsup:Comment
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Practiced finishing a small piece and came up with this.
I think I need heavier sanding between coats and things seem a little "streaky" on the surface.
The kit shipped today so I have my soldering iron all ready to rumble. Can't wait to rock out.Comment
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Hmm...I am looking at other builds and it looks like maybe people at "wrapping the speaker with a piece of relaxed veneer seamed in the back? I was planning on using a cut for each side. HELP!!:begging:Comment
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I am no expert, maybe the quadman will jump in here. I think the wrapping is usually done when you have rounded edges. I did cuts on my av-1rs.
Here are django's comments:
Originally posted by the7comeback7kidComment
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Alright so I don't feel too far off. Do you have any close up snaps of one of your seams? I was thinking sanding both edges to 45 degrees to form a clean 90 degree edge? Interested on what quadman would say about it.Comment
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