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  • Help with WinISD and New Project

    So I scrapped my idea of the sub that fires into the bottom of the couch and decided to make a sono sub for the basement playroom with the extra ULW amp I'm going to have and move the ULW that's down there up to my bedroom. I figured my other idea was sort of a lost cause and this would give me the chance to make a sono sub like I've wanted to for a while now :D

    So that brings me to WinISD. I'm just playing around with it and read a brief tutorial on it and I think I have it figured out. If someone can check what I came up with and make sure I did it right that'd be awesome.

    Using the Dayton Titanic MKIII 12" 4ohm Driver: http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-404s.pdf

    Box size of 155litres
    Tuning Frequency of 20hz
    1 Vent with a .102m diameter x .314m length

    The frequency response isn't perfectly flat but it's pretty flat (-.89db down at 35hz) with a -3db point of 17.86hz

    I came up with a tube with a 15" ID (roughly 18" OD sonotube) that is 3.1' high.

    How does this look? Any tips/suggestions/better drivers for around the same money? I'm going to be using the 500w ULW amp in an external enclosure so I don't have to worry about the air it'll take up or the air leaks out of the knobs that I currently have with it.

    Thanks!

    Scott

  • #2
    Anybody have experience with this? I figured there were enough DIY-ers here that could give me a hand that I wouldn't have to post at AVS and made to feel like a goober :D

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey Skeeter,

      What about using it to power a set of bass shakers that you could install in the couch...I have pair in my couch and they work well...adds that little extra rumble that you need...might be a nice use for that amp and is very little work...:thumbsup:

      Just a thought.....

      Comment


      • #4
        I didn't read through your other thread, did you figure out that you can put the amp in its own enclosure and then just put a binding post on the sub enclosure. A lot of people do that with the GR research servo subs.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by dvenardos
          I didn't read through your other thread, did you figure out that you can put the amp in its own enclosure and then just put a binding post on the sub enclosure. A lot of people do that with the GR research servo subs.
          That's what I'm planning on doing. I'll have the amp right by the Receiver and then just run a set of speaker cables to the enclosure and put binding posts on the enclosure.

          Speaking of which, besides the look, is there any reason for gold binding posts over nickle plated? I was looking on Parts Express and they have some really cooling looking binding posts in Nickle that should work very well for what I'm doing, I'm just used to seeing gold.

          Comment


          • #6
            Here are the binding posts I'm thinking about using:

            Inexpensive:
            http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=091-1247




            Or mid-priced:
            http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=091-624




            Or the same mid-priced but different style:
            http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=091-632




            All these come in Gold as well but I think the Satin Nickle has a pretty cool look to it. I'm leaning toward the last style as I think they'd look the best.

            What do you think?

            Comment


            • #7
              The plating doesn't matter, it is just to keep the brass core from oxidizing. A copper core is better than brass because it is more conductive.

              Don't have specific recommendations for you.

              Comment


              • #8
                As mentioned before, gold is to prevent oxidization so no reason to not get them unless you're really pinching pennies.

                I'd vote against bass shakers. It's a gimmick and not the real thing. Of course what you really want is a subwoofer capable of shaking your couch just by the air waves. ;)

                I'm curious about your sonotube choice? 1.5" thick walls is overdoing it. 1/4" should be sufficient. The kind from your local concrete supply company. You can get 1/2" if you really want. Home Depot sonotube is 1/8" I think.

                Unfortunately the specifications on the 12" Titanic don't include its linearity. The Rythmik DS1200 is probably a better choice and about the same price. SoundSplinter drivers are nice but more expensive. I use TC Sounds drivers. Also nicer but more expensive.
                Wes Miaw, Neko Audio LLC
                www.NekoAudio.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by NekoAudio
                  As mentioned before, gold is to prevent oxidization so no reason to not get them unless you're really pinching pennies.

                  I'd vote against bass shakers. It's a gimmick and not the real thing. Of course what you really want is a subwoofer capable of shaking your couch just by the air waves. ;)

                  I'm curious about your sonotube choice? 1.5" thick walls is overdoing it. 1/4" should be sufficient. The kind from your local concrete supply company. You can get 1/2" if you really want. Home Depot sonotube is 1/8" I think.

                  Unfortunately the specifications on the 12" Titanic don't include its linearity. The Rythmik DS1200 is probably a better choice and about the same price. SoundSplinter drivers are nice but more expensive. I use TC Sounds drivers. Also nicer but more expensive.
                  I found out the wall thickness of the Sonotube I'm getting is 1/2" thick so not nearly as bad as I thought :D

                  I'll do some checking on the Soundplinter and TC Sounds drivers, do you have any specific suggestions given the above info I've provided for requirements? I'd like to keep the driver around the $150 or so price range.

                  Thanks!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by skeeter99
                    So I scrapped my idea of the sub that fires into the bottom of the couch and decided to make a sono sub for the basement playroom with the extra ULW amp I'm going to have and move the ULW that's down there up to my bedroom. I figured my other idea was sort of a lost cause and this would give me the chance to make a sono sub like I've wanted to for a while now :D

                    So that brings me to WinISD. I'm just playing around with it and read a brief tutorial on it and I think I have it figured out. If someone can check what I came up with and make sure I did it right that'd be awesome.

                    Using the Dayton Titanic MKIII 12" 4ohm Driver: http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-404s.pdf

                    Box size of 155litres
                    Tuning Frequency of 20hz
                    1 Vent with a .102m diameter x .314m length

                    The frequency response isn't perfectly flat but it's pretty flat (-.89db down at 35hz) with a -3db point of 17.86hz

                    I came up with a tube with a 15" ID (roughly 18" OD sonotube) that is 3.1' high.

                    How does this look? Any tips/suggestions/better drivers for around the same money? I'm going to be using the 500w ULW amp in an external enclosure so I don't have to worry about the air it'll take up or the air leaks out of the knobs that I currently have with it.

                    Thanks!

                    Scott
                    Skeeter,Using Bass box pro and playing with that driver I came up with these numbers..
                    Total internal volume including port is 132.5 liters
                    Tuned to 22 hz
                    F3 19 hz
                    F10 15 and change
                    39" high 18" Dia Thats external dims if the wall thickness is .75
                    vent 5.205 by 23.4
                    Hope this helps....

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 46minaudio
                      Skeeter,Using Bass box pro and playing with that driver I came up with these numbers..
                      Total internal volume including port is 132.5 liters
                      Tuned to 22 hz
                      F3 19 hz
                      F10 15 and change
                      39" high 18" Dia Thats external dims if the wall thickness is .75
                      vent 5.205 by 23.4
                      Hope this helps....
                      That's odd, I wonder if I was just doing something wrong or if those programs really model the drivers that differently :crazy:

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by skeeter99
                        I'll do some checking on the Soundplinter and TC Sounds drivers, do you have any specific suggestions given the above info I've provided for requirements? I'd like to keep the driver around the $150 or so price range.
                        I think everything from SoundSplinter and TC Sounds is going to be above $150. Even the Rythmik is $180, I think. If $150 is your budget for the drivers then the Dayton is a fine choice. :)
                        Wes Miaw, Neko Audio LLC
                        www.NekoAudio.com

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by NekoAudio
                          I think everything from SoundSplinter and TC Sounds is going to be above $150. Even the Rythmik is $180, I think. If $150 is your budget for the drivers then the Dayton is a fine choice. :)
                          That's kind of what I was thinking. Their drivers look awesome but for a secondary system, I really don't want to dump a bunch of money into it. It's pretty much just my 6 and 8 year olds that use that system so it doesn't need to rock too much :jiggy:

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Also the option of the GR non-servo 12" for $100:
                            http://www.gr-research.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=131

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              OK I may have found a different alternative to doing the Dayton Sub. What about (3) 10" NPT-11-083-2 from HERE

                              Lots of people have been gobbling these up at AVS and other sites. One guy even did (12) of these in sealed enclosures and it was just sick.

                              The f3 of these is 16hz and the ULW amp has (from what I've been told) a 16hz rumble filter so it should be pretty well matched. I'd think (3) of these guys in a sealed Sonotube should just flat out rock!

                              Ideas?

                              Comment

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