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Prototype Closet Organizer

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  • Prototype Closet Organizer

    Just thought I would post up a picture of the closet organizer that I finished this evening. It is not an example of the construction techniques that you should use or anything that quadman or django would be proud of but it met all of the design goals: cheap, sturdy, and functional. I feel sorry for the earthquake that tries to attack my closet.

    This is part of my home organization project and stems from my disatisfaction with the quality and expense of the rubbermaid/closet maid organization products and my realization that dimensional lumber is cheap and sturdy.
    I originally started this project with the idea of framing with 2x2s and was using scrap plywood to surface the frame. After completing the project I think the cheapest and best way to frame it would be to frame up a box with the back consisting of a 2x2 frame and the sides plywood. You could also just make a back using plywood, but 2x2s are much cheaper then making the back from a solid piece of good quality plywood. I used glue and wood screws, and yes, it is true that glue really bonds wood. Don't think you can decide on a better way to do something and then fix it after the glue has started setting. :D

    I have two more closets to do, so I will do a much better job on them.

  • #2
    Hey Don. Sturdy stuff! It looks like it could withstand an earthquake and a bomb blast. The glue was probably overkill!

    As you are wrote "prototype" I'll offer up suggestions:).

    Would you consider making the next ones out of melamine? You can get pre-cut 12 and 16 inch shelves which are also pre-drilled for shelf pins. You just need to put in two or three fixed shelves for structural strength ( top , middle and bottom. Asssembly is pretty easy by pre-drilling (3/32 holes) and screwing with 1 1/2 inch #6 screw or you can use little 3/4 by 3/4 brackets and 5/8 inch screw.. It would be quicker to make and no painting. The only moderate difficulty is getting decently chip free cuts (I can give you different strategies for that if interested). Don't know how it would stand up to earthquakes ...


    • #3
      Thanks Stephen. Yeah, I am pretty ridiculous. I figure if I see any kind of a shelving unit it isn't any good unless it doubles as a ladder. :D

      I did end up deciding that 12" and 16" was the optimum size for the shelving. I really don't like melamine though, just me. I have to have them rip or cut the plywood to get it in my Rav4 so if I plan things right I can have pre-ripped shelves and then just cut them to size.

      What is the best way to get a consistent hole pattern when drilling for adjustable shelves? That is something I really should learn how to do.


      • #4
        I put in the John Louis organizers and am very satisfied with both the look and quality. It is the only real wood solution DIY installation that I could find. The honey maple is very nice looking.


        • #5
          Originally posted by dvenardos
          What is the best way to get a consistent hole pattern when drilling for adjustable shelves? That is something I really should learn how to do.
          The best way or a good, not too expensive way?

          If you are thinking about doing it with a hand held drill you can buy a jig. If you want to go basic it's just a question of measuring and marking with a sharp pencil. Put both sides together (back to back) and mark all four holes for the same shelf at the same time using your square. Then drilling with a brad point drill bit or a forstner bit

          and a depth stop. .

          Better ways involve a drill press or a plunge router and a jig...


          • #6
            Originally posted by django1
            The best way or a good, not too expensive way?
            Oh right, I should remember my audience. :D
            Good and not too expensive is my speed.
            I do have a plunge router that I haven't really learned how to use yet.


            • #7
              Well you need a jig with a plunge router . Something like this

              The size of the guide hole is the same size as the guide bushing ( the brass thingie around the bit)


              You just put the bushing in the guide hole and plunge. With the jig it's just a matter of placing it consistenty so all the holes match up. Must be quick. I've never used one.