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Any mechanics in the house?

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  • Any mechanics in the house?

    I got a car issue that maybe those who know cars more than me may be able to help. If I start my car cold, it starts up fine, then drives fine. Every so often, after I drive for a bit then park, and then start up the car again (like I drive to the pharmacy to pick up something then start the car again in 15 minutes), it will sputter and stall. This doesn't happen often, just every so often (once or twice a month), and I can't get the conditions to repeat. I end up having to rev the engine to keep it at it's normal idle 900rpm for a few minutes, then when I let off the gas, it will be fine. Additionally, if I rev it to it's idle speed, and switch gears quickly and drive (this doesn't seem like a good idea though, I've only done this twice since figuring it out the other day), it'll be fine well. Does this make any sense?

  • #2
    I'm not an expert, but I had almost the exact same issue with my last vehicle. From what I learned through the entire experience, it could be anything from a leaky fuel injector, to a bad fuel pump, to a bad fuel pressure regulator. If I was going to give some advice on the issue it would be to make sure wherever you get it worked on, to make sure they gaurantee that the issue will be solved by whatever means they use to address it. After spending about $600 on a new fuel pump, I still had the same issue... it turned into a total PIA. Hopefully it's something easy for you like the fuel pressure regulator!


    • #3
      The answer might be a little different for a 1952 DeSoto then a 2008 Civic, so some details and mileage about the car would help.


      • #4
        Whoops. It's a 2000 Honda Accord V6.


        • #5
          You could pay the dealership to hook up their diagnostic computer to your car and it may give you the answer.

          I am guessing it's dirty fuel in the tank. Recall where you have filled up....are they name brand stations? Make sure you never fill up when a tanker is there topping off the station's tanks. To rule it out, run your gas down near E, get a new fuel filter, refuel and see how it goes.

          You can also go here to ask the question or search for an answer -


          • #6

            Sorry but I'm not up on my Hondas. I doubt that it is fuel related as fuel would be a constant, you have an intermittant issue.

            90% of issues are electronic in nature, either wiring or sensor. I'm taking it that the problem does not happen when the motor is fully warmed up. A quick drive then sit and restart gets you into a confusing stage for the motor. Cold the ECM will kick up the fuel rich to compensate for the cold condition like an old choke would, and when fully heated it will run lean per EPA spec's. But it sounds like a transistional motor temperature issue.

            On older Fords they used to use an idle bypass valve which when gummed up would produce exactly what you describe. They don't use them anymore and I'm not sure your vehicle ever did. But a faulty temperature sensor or a faulty oxygen sensor could be at fault, IMO. Usually these will set off a red MIL light on your dash, but not always.

            Without going to the expense of a dealer, usually an AutoZone parts store will come out with a tool and check for any operating engine codes that will tell if there any faults. That may be a good start. Maybe 'start' is not a good word here. First check might be better.


            • #7
              I have had this problem and it was the MAS or MAP sensor.(manifold absolute pressure map sensor) Those sensor can do alot of stupid stuff to a car.

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              • #8
                Try something simple and cheap first. Change your fuel filter if it has not been replaced in last 25000 miles.


                • #9
                  hrm, I don't get the check engine light, so I don't think there would be computer codes to check. I should replace the fuel filter then. Maybe that would help with the gas milage. It's absolute crap. As you can probably tell, i know nothing about cars other than they go vroom. or in my case, sputter, shudder, stall.


                  • #10
                    has the millage gotten worse recently? might be an O2 sensor

                    But scan it anyway, there are some things that might be in the computer that dont set a hard code
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                    • #11
                      A dirty oxygen sensor can sometimes not set a hard code. You can throw money at guesses, but a scan is the only way to see if there is a fault. The Autozone scanners dont necessarily pick up everything though.

                      I'd offer to use my AutoEnginuity, but it only has the software for Fords.