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2020 subwoofer thread [updated 1/20]

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  • Originally posted by BufordTJustice View Post
    Technical note:

    long RCA runs for sub/LFE cables are a perfect use case for star-quad, shielded cable geometry. ‘World’s Best Cables’ on Amazon makes high quality Canare L-4e6s/Gotham GAC 4/1 / Mogami 2534 based RCAs with quality Amphenol connectors for very fair prices. Shielded star-quad cable stock, made in Switzerland (Gotham) or Japan (Mogami/Canare), with an asymmetrically terminated shield (which makes them directional to optimize nose rejection; no snake oil here).

    Great way to keep background noise to a minimum. The additional capacitance per foot is a non issue for sub cables even with longer runs.
    Thanks. That makes that part easier. Any suggestions on feet, or general guidelines?

    Comment


    • Originally posted by msweig View Post

      Thanks. That makes that part easier. Any suggestions on feet, or general guidelines?
      You want to measure for length in 3 dimensions to keep strain and funky angles at a minimum. Shield integrity and effectiveness actually has a minimum bend radius, as well.

      But you want to go as short as is practical. Don’t be afraid to grab some Audioquest 90-degree adapters and a 90-degree IEC From Monoprice to permit placement right up against a wall if that’s what works for you.

      Back to length; measure from the jacks at your source (AVR/preamp) Straight down to the floor, along the floorboard, and then straight up to the connector on the sub. Then add at least 1 foot and that’s your length. If you’re estimating so you can land the cable when the sub arrives, call it 15” from the floor (cabinet height) on the sub end and you’ll be fine.

      Comment


      • question all... I just ordered the 300 model, seems to good to pass up. One of my subwoofers is RSL Speedwoofer that i think has same amp as these new Chane subs... How close is the 300 model be to the RSL Sub which also has a 10" woofer? Which also seems to punch above its price and i've been happy with?

        Comment


        • Originally posted by yanks1 View Post
          question all... I just ordered the 300 model, seems to good to pass up. One of my subwoofers is RSL Speedwoofer that i think has same amp as these new Chane subs... How close is the 300 model be to the RSL Sub which also has a 10" woofer? Which also seems to punch above its price and i've been happy with?
          It’s been a while since I heard the RSL. And only briefly when I did. Can’t comment on the exact model of the amps, but I would imagine their performance is going to be similar.

          Would like to hear your impressions once yours arrives.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by BufordTJustice View Post

            You want to measure for length in 3 dimensions to keep strain and funky angles at a minimum. Shield integrity and effectiveness actually has a minimum bend radius, as well.

            But you want to go as short as is practical. Don’t be afraid to grab some Audioquest 90-degree adapters and a 90-degree IEC From Monoprice to permit placement right up against a wall if that’s what works for you.

            Back to length; measure from the jacks at your source (AVR/preamp) Straight down to the floor, along the floorboard, and then straight up to the connector on the sub. Then add at least 1 foot and that’s your length. If you’re estimating so you can land the cable when the sub arrives, call it 15” from the floor (cabinet height) on the sub end and you’ll be fine.
            So do people typically just use cheaper/inferior cables they have laying around for the sub crawl/playing with positioning, etc? Then when they get things figured out swap to the better cables? Or do the better cables make a difference when doing the sub crawl?

            Comment


            • Originally posted by msweig View Post

              So do people typically just use cheaper/inferior cables they have laying around for the sub crawl/playing with positioning, etc? Then when they get things figured out swap to the better cables? Or do the better cables make a difference when doing the sub crawl?
              You nailed it. Cheapies for the crawl and real cable for the permanent location.

              They don’t sound the same. Anybody who says they do has tin ears or doesn’t know how to look at cable specs. With the current prices of the cables I listed, there’s no reason not to use a quality cable. Throw in BJC as another option using coaxial Belden stock and there’s just no reason to go cheaper.

              I’ve had mixed results with Monoprice Monolith; some cables work great but others have been DOA. Unacceptable. So I can’t recommend them any longer. Monoprice cables have made me look dumb one too many times.

              Comment


              • This is a long shot, but any others from Alberta on here that would consider a group pick-up from Montana?
                Considerable savings, if say 4 people, then shared fuel costs and whatnot.
                Otherwise, you're looking at $140 via UPS from Montana, plus "brokerage" fees.
                Jon, you need a distributor here! :)

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Torque View Post
                  This is a long shot, but any others from Alberta on here that would consider a group pick-up from Montana?
                  Considerable savings, if say 4 people, then shared fuel costs and whatnot.
                  Otherwise, you're looking at $140 via UPS from Montana, plus "brokerage" fees.
                  Jon, you need a distributor here! :)
                  If somebody wanted to swing by and buy my custom painted set of A5rx-c’s in Seattle for CHEAP, that would be great, too. Lol.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by BufordTJustice View Post
                    It’s been a while since I heard the RSL. And only briefly when I did. Can’t comment on the exact model of the amps, but I would imagine their performance is going to be similar.

                    Would like to hear your impressions once yours arrives.
                    So too would I. The SpeedWoofer 10 is the yardstick to measure all low cost, high quality subs by.

                    If you take yourself too seriously, expect me to do the exact opposite

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by theJman View Post

                      So too would I. The SpeedWoofer 10 is the yardstick to measure all low cost, high quality subs by.
                      I have recommended it more than any other sub $650 sub for music purposes since it’s been out.

                      Great Sub, I just don’t like to comment when I’ve only listened casually at another person’s place for 20 minutes. What I heard from the SpeedWoofer was VERY good though.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by yanks1 View Post
                        How close is the 300 model be to the RSL Sub which also has a 10" woofer? Which also seems to punch above its price and i've been happy with?
                        This is the question only you can answer, for us! Please let us all know! It's difficult to compare one sub to another based only on numbers, for several reasons (I won't go into details, but just as an example, RSL states the 10s has an F3 of 24 Hz, but B. Butterworth measured it at 29 Hz, which is a pretty big difference). But having two different subs in the same room, in the same location, and comparing sound signature/tightness/output...that's the real test.

                        All that being said, the numbers we have for the TAI-300 compare very favorably with the RSL 10s. I'm betting the TAI-300 is at least slightly better, however...and cheaper. Let us know your impressions when it arrives.

                        Comment


                        • RSL's approach and need for additional box resonance reduction is curious. Is it just a matter of compensating for a less expensive box construction or speaker design?

                          Where are the 14 and 15" TAI speaker resonant frequencies and how were their effects minimized?

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by kabin View Post
                            RSL's approach and need for additional box resonance reduction is curious. Is it just a matter of compensating for a less expensive box construction or speaker design?
                            It's not a need, it's a want; it's done deliberately for a specific purpose. And it's not snake oil, just different. Joe Rodgers found something that he believes works better. Based upon what I've heard I completely agree with him. All of his speakers and subwoofers utilize the same design to great effect.

                            If you take yourself too seriously, expect me to do the exact opposite

                            Comment


                            • thanks for the replies everyone!! I love my Speedwoofer and these new Chane lower cost subs interested me so thought be good time to add a new sub. Two of my set-ups have subwoofers purchased in 1990s, older Polk 10" sub & also small Velodyne Sub. My primary 5.2.4 set-up in our large bonus room has 2 Outlaw Ultra X-12s. Our 5.1 set-up in Great Room has the RSL. That said, been a long time Chane fan, owned the A3 mini-towers for few years, sold them after purchasing Revel F206s but then bought used 3 month old Chane A1.5s for our sunroom.. love those little speakers, they replaced Polk RT28i speakers, big improvement!

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by theJman View Post
                                it's done deliberately for a specific purpose.
                                Speaking of doing something for a specific purpose, as someone who has dialed in more subwoofers than most, what is your general recommendation regarding the gain knob setting on a sub? I have three default settings I've used over the years: 80% (too high!), 50% (i.e. 12 o'clock, a popular setting), and 35-40%, which is where my current Klipsch resides (my AVR set the sub trim to -8 with this gain knob setting, and at night I have to trim to -10 or -11; it's still a bit much).

                                Obviously, we'd like to get the most out of our new sub(s), but I've also read that you want room correction (in my case, AccuEQ from Onkyo) to set the sub trim to about -10. That way you can add sub boost via the AVR without risk of clipping. Is that how you set the gain knob, i.e. you run room correction with a particular gain knob setting and see if you get about -10, and if you don't, you adjust the knob up or down a bit and re-run?

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