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MiniDSP / OmniMic EQ and Calibration walk through for MQ600s

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  • MiniDSP / OmniMic EQ and Calibration walk through for MQ600s

    Hello folks,
    As promised a few weeks back, I put together a walkthrough on how to use the MiniDSP to EQ my MQ600s using OmniMic. This should also work just fine for RoomEQ Wizard, but the steps will be different for that software, but the MiniDSP steps are the same.
    I'm taken screenshots along the way to explain things, but feel free to comment should something not make sense, and I can come back in and add detail where needed.
    Let's get started. First, you'll want to get things setup. I'm using the latest version of Omnimic install on my laptop, and the calibration CD in my player. I'm using track 2, to do my measurements. I've shifted the FR to show 5-200hz using the little arrows at the bottom of the scale.
    The first thing you want to do is take some averages across your seating positions. I took 3 in each of my middle row seats.

    The red line represents the average of all they measurements. Omnimic only used averages to calcualte Filters so this is important. Another suggestion is once you get a new average, save that average reading in the file menu so you can use it for subsequent optimizations by loading that FR back in as an average (in the file menu as well)
    Now that we have our average, let's open the Equalizer in the main math menu:

    Then open up the full Parametric EQ

    Now you can see the entire dialog.

    I've highlighted in yellow the fields you need to work with. You'll want to click the auto setting on all of the PEQ sections (the auto button sets them all). Decide the range you want to EQ. I picked 10-200. Once you click everything to auto, you see a grey bar show up as well. this is the target curve you'll create. The Target offset is good for pulling down the signal. It's easier to EQ down than to boost up. The slope of the response curve is useful to play with any sort of house curve you want. I tend to play with these till I get things where I want them. Then I hit optimize and the system starts thinking.
    You can see in the below image now that it's been calculating the curve based on my parameters, and the yellow line indicates what the actual filters will do to the average response I took earlier:

    When it looks good enough for you, you can click stop optimizing.
    How that you have a your desired target FR, it's time to export the Biquads so you can use them in MiniDSP

    What is a biquad you ask? It's basically a type of linear filter function. See more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biquad_...#Biquad_filter
    Anyhow, we're going to export these 6 filters, and save it to a file you'll use in a minute:

    Now, let's lauch MiniDSP if you haven't already and navigate to the audio settings tab, and click on the big box labeled Parametric Filters. Click on the Import REW File button. Select the file you saved from Omnimic when you exported the Biquad.
    Now that you've loaded your biquads, you'll see something like this:

    This is a reflection of the filters you are going to apply to the outgoing signal to the your subwoofers. Now, it's time to sync your filters to the MiniDSP. Disconnect your Minidsp from the powersource, and then plug the USB from the MiniDSP into you computer. Press the sync button:

    When it's done syncing, you'll see this:

    Congrats! you are done. Now, go fire Omnimic (or REW) back up and measure what you've got. Here's what I had:

    Now, I know what you are thinking. That's not a perfectly flat curve like Omnimic showed. Yes, there are still room interactions. That's where you can now load back up that average curve you saved, and reoptimize. Try running the optimizer, then stop it and flip the values to manual to hand adjust them. You can see the affects as you play with the various values. Have fun with it. Upload various filters, try it again, remeaure, and don't forget to listen to various curves to see what you like best. After all, this hobby is all about finding what sounds best to each of us.
    I hope you found this useful. If you have questions, please post them and I'll try to answer them. I'm no expert, but I did spend some time trying to figure this stuff out. Happy to add more detail if something is unclear.
    Happy EQ'ing.
    -DG
    LCR: Gedlee Abbeys for LR and Nathan for Center Surround & rear 4 x Sho10's
    Subs: 4 x 18.2
    Electronics: Marantz SR7002, Acurus 200x3 (LCR), PS3, HTPC, CDP300, Mits HC1500, Elite Peregrine 2.35 156" Acousticpro4k

  • #2
    DG - Excellent body of work. Thanks for all you are putting into this. Hopefully the forum upgrades will be on line soon so all your pics can be embedded into the post.

    Would you be so kind as to put some info about your room into this thread? What you are doing here, plus what Derrick did with the I-nuke will be good to see with the testing I will be doing with a single SBE-118 and Audyssey XT-32. I will post similar graphs that you are doing here, for the potential purchaser seeking more of a "plug and play" set up.

    Thanks again - this is great!

    Comment


    • #3
      Can't seem to edit my reserved post, just the last one, but here goes. Craig, feel free to move this text to the reserved #1 post if you can.

      A quick word about my theater and how it's structured. I currently have 4 18.2's (one is really an 18.T) located in all 4 corners of the room. The room is 16'x34'x7.5'. Over 4000 Cubic Feet. You can see the room layout here:



      I have an equipment rack the back of the room behind a fabric wall, that hides the subs and rear surrounds. 2 MQ600's power all for 18.2s, and I run the LFE jack from my Marantz 7002, split it, and feed both left and right signals into the MiniDSP. Then, I have outputs 1 and 4 on the MiniDSP feed each of the MQ600's. Here is a shot of one of the 18.2's in the rear of the room:




      The front wall is also a fabric wall with an acoustically transparent screen. Here's a shot behind the screen. You can see both 18.2's in the corners:




      Here is the finished product in terms of room layout:









      But most importantly, as you can see from the above posts, I'm fairly flat to 9 or 10 hz, and it sounds amazing. Gun shots slap you in the chest. We're on concrete floors and it feels like we're bouncing around during FOTP. I couldn't be happier, and honestly, I don't think I can do better than this.

      If anyone is interested in the build pics, the link to the album is here: You can see the build, and the endless EQ'ing and Tinkering I do: http://s292.photobucket.com/user/dgu...sort=6&page=10
      Last edited by dguarnaccia; 03-11-2014, 10:54 PM. Reason: added dimmensions
      LCR: Gedlee Abbeys for LR and Nathan for Center Surround & rear 4 x Sho10's
      Subs: 4 x 18.2
      Electronics: Marantz SR7002, Acurus 200x3 (LCR), PS3, HTPC, CDP300, Mits HC1500, Elite Peregrine 2.35 156" Acousticpro4k

      Comment


      • #4
        DG - Yes, please. One of the "experiments" I will be doing here is taking an SBE-118 (single 18 inch driver) and placing it in 4 separate locations in two different rooms in our home. Pictures will be taken of each position, along with graphs before and after XT-32 is applied to each situation.

        Our two rooms are fairly difficult - 25x24x8.5 feet and 44x14.5x7 feet.

        Having your tests, plus Derricks, plus ours here will provide to people three ways to getting a nice response curve from our subwoofers.

        Comment


        • #5
          No problem. The first image in the top post is the raw, totally unEQ'd FR for the room. Audessy is turned off, and the MiniDSP was disconnected.
          LCR: Gedlee Abbeys for LR and Nathan for Center Surround & rear 4 x Sho10's
          Subs: 4 x 18.2
          Electronics: Marantz SR7002, Acurus 200x3 (LCR), PS3, HTPC, CDP300, Mits HC1500, Elite Peregrine 2.35 156" Acousticpro4k

          Comment


          • #6
            Very nice setup. Thanks for sharing charts.
            engtaz

            I love how music can brighten up a bad day.

            Comment


            • #7
              Nice review of the Mini DSP and Omni Mic. That looks like one impressive HT.
              Klipsch system: RF 7 mains, RS 35 Surrounds, RS 35 FW, RC 64 center, Chase SS 18.2,SS 18.1(2), (2) Berhinger I Nuke3000 DSP
              Pioneer Elite SC 35
              Acurus 200 x 5 amp
              Yamaha M 80 amp

              2 Channel System: Yaquin VK 2100 integrated amp/McIntosh XR 5

              Family Room: Sony STR DH 510, Klipsch VF 35, Epik Legend sub

              Comment


              • #8
                I would be interested in how much EQ you did and do you have something like Auddyssey also in the mix? How many peaks or toughs were addressed and the amount of bass boost or attenuation?
                Klipsch system: RF 7 mains, RS 35 Surrounds, RS 35 FW, RC 64 center, Chase SS 18.2,SS 18.1(2), (2) Berhinger I Nuke3000 DSP
                Pioneer Elite SC 35
                Acurus 200 x 5 amp
                Yamaha M 80 amp

                2 Channel System: Yaquin VK 2100 integrated amp/McIntosh XR 5

                Family Room: Sony STR DH 510, Klipsch VF 35, Epik Legend sub

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hey Derek, you can see in this image what the actual boosts and cuts were that I did.

                  It reads Frequency, Q and Boost amount. The first filter was a boost, at 9.4hz, Q=2.7 6.9 db boost, etc.

                  Audessy is turned off. My Marantz just has the old XT, and it's not very good. I don't bother with it.
                  LCR: Gedlee Abbeys for LR and Nathan for Center Surround & rear 4 x Sho10's
                  Subs: 4 x 18.2
                  Electronics: Marantz SR7002, Acurus 200x3 (LCR), PS3, HTPC, CDP300, Mits HC1500, Elite Peregrine 2.35 156" Acousticpro4k

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I had to get my glasses to really see the chart well. You have a big area to cover looking at your room pic. The Mini DSP should be a great tool to use for sub calibration. With 4 SS 18.2's, your LFE needs should be more than covered, lol. So, you are flat to around 10 Hz? I am pretty flat to around 12 Hz and then a 2-3 db drop around 10 Hz. For a lot of movies I end up cutting the sub trim in the avr. Thanks.
                    Klipsch system: RF 7 mains, RS 35 Surrounds, RS 35 FW, RC 64 center, Chase SS 18.2,SS 18.1(2), (2) Berhinger I Nuke3000 DSP
                    Pioneer Elite SC 35
                    Acurus 200 x 5 amp
                    Yamaha M 80 amp

                    2 Channel System: Yaquin VK 2100 integrated amp/McIntosh XR 5

                    Family Room: Sony STR DH 510, Klipsch VF 35, Epik Legend sub

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by dguarnaccia View Post
                      Hey Derek, you can see in this image what the actual boosts and cuts were that I did.

                      It reads Frequency, Q and Boost amount. The first filter was a boost, at 9.4hz, Q=2.7 6.9 db boost, etc.

                      Audessy is turned off. My Marantz just has the old XT, and it's not very good. I don't bother with it.
                      DG - Your receiver has the old Multeq, not XT. It takes XT or XT-32 to get good results with a subwoofer. I tried a Marantz 8003 pre-amp purchased in 2008, and had similar results to yours.

                      The receiver/processors which work well are typically XT or XT-32 units that started to appear in 2011.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        First off, thanks for the awesome walk through, gave me the inspiration to hash out some problems I've had with REW, my Umik, and AMD video card HDMI output on my HTPC.

                        Found out after selecting ASIO, that REW after an initial setup thanks to Sonnie on HTS needs to quit and restart. Then I can just select speaker 4 (the subwoofer channels - I have two) and measure.

                        I found a nasty 18dB drop at 80Hz in red at my crossover. Tinkering around with iNuke DSP phase/delay, I finally zeroed in on delaying the rear sub 3 ms which cured that problem in purple. Guess multiEQ XT didn't quite get the distance right? Then used REW's EQ (set up for the DCX2496) to calculate and optimize the freq, gain and Q settings to be hand entered into the iNuke (done for Channel A, and again for Channel B), and ended up with this in blue - not bad for a room with a 4' opening;
                        Click image for larger version

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                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I've been meaning to upgrade to an XT32 receiver at some point, but have been waiting for HDMI 2.0 to make into receivers before I made the jump. For now though, MiniDSP has been pretty solid for me.

                          I was pretty conservative on the amount of boosting I did this round. The MQ600's can handled a whole lot more, but I've also been warned about distortion. What's the upper limit one can boost before you get into trouble?
                          LCR: Gedlee Abbeys for LR and Nathan for Center Surround & rear 4 x Sho10's
                          Subs: 4 x 18.2
                          Electronics: Marantz SR7002, Acurus 200x3 (LCR), PS3, HTPC, CDP300, Mits HC1500, Elite Peregrine 2.35 156" Acousticpro4k

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by sbdman View Post
                            First off, thanks for the awesome walk through, gave me the inspiration to hash out some problems I've had with REW, my Umik, and AMD video card HDMI output on my HTPC.

                            Found out after selecting ASIO, that REW after an initial setup thanks to Sonnie on HTS needs to quit and restart. Then I can just select speaker 4 (the subwoofer channels - I have two) and measure.

                            I found a nasty 18dB drop at 80Hz in red at my crossover. Tinkering around with iNuke DSP phase/delay, I finally zeroed in on delaying the rear sub 3 ms which cured that problem in purple. Guess multiEQ XT didn't quite get the distance right? Then used REW's EQ (set up for the DCX2496) to calculate and optimize the freq, gain and Q settings to be hand entered into the iNuke (done for Channel A, and again for Channel B), and ended up with this in blue - not bad for a room with a 4' opening;
                            [ATTACH]14968[/ATTACH]

                            Nice work on that, looks great.
                            LCR: Gedlee Abbeys for LR and Nathan for Center Surround & rear 4 x Sho10's
                            Subs: 4 x 18.2
                            Electronics: Marantz SR7002, Acurus 200x3 (LCR), PS3, HTPC, CDP300, Mits HC1500, Elite Peregrine 2.35 156" Acousticpro4k

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by dguarnaccia View Post
                              I've been meaning to upgrade to an XT32 receiver at some point, but have been waiting for HDMI 2.0 to make into receivers before I made the jump. For now though, MiniDSP has been pretty solid for me.

                              I was pretty conservative on the amount of boosting I did this round. The MQ600's can handled a whole lot more, but I've also been warned about distortion. What's the upper limit one can boost before you get into trouble?
                              The upper limit on boost is an open ended topic - it all comes down to when you will bottom the driver. An MQ-600, per channel, is pretty much ideal for a pair of our 18's. It's very difficult to bottom the driver with it - though occasionally it can happen.

                              A good rule of thumb is your ears - you would hear an issue if you were having one.

                              Comment

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