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Q&A about Our subwoofers and Dayton Amps

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  • Q&A about Our subwoofers and Dayton Amps

    Guys - As is typical, people who have no experience with our products are making up the most nonsense about our products, so I thought a Q&A thread would be useful.

    1. Do Dayton amps shut down when driven into clipping?

    We do not have amps that "constantly shut down". When Ethan and Adam tested our sub, they got to appx. the same SPL as the eD sub with no shut downs.

    Other members have noted they can drive the HECK out of our subs, but then an occasional scene will cause it to shut down.

    One such scene is the Ska-Doosh (sp?) from Kung Fu Panda. This scene was tested by a Tech-Talk guy at Parts Express.

    It turns out there is a transient on that scene that is 6.5 times as strong as the rest of the scene.

    So - if we are driving the amp to, say, 600 watt peaks into an SS-18.T or SS-18.2 on "normal bass" from that scene, suddenly the amp thinks it needs to deliver 3900 watts.

    It isn't the power amp protection that kicks in here. It is the input overloading on that scene. The circuitry reads this as a voltage spike, and will shut the unit down in rare occasions.

    This is normally also when Audyssey is engaged as well.

    When this occurs, simply turning off the amp for 10 seconds and turning it back on will solve the problem.

    Again, this is not common - it is rare.

    2. What does the blue light which can flash red mean on the front of the amp?

    The blue light means the amp is operating at less than half capacity of the unit. As the red light comes on, it begins at about -3 dB in power, and will stay on steadily until about a +3 dB peak is hit. Occasional flashing is not a sign of clipping.

    3. What does it mean when I see "modified Dayton amp" or "stock amp" in other threads.

    This means that either the eq curve or subsonic filter has been changed. There is no way of modding the amp to get "more power". There is no way of modding the amp to change the input protection circuitry.

    The standard bass boost is about 3 dB.

    As noted earlier, our boost is a little more.

    4. Why doesn't CHT boost the lower frequencies more as much of its competition?

    All sealed subwoofers require a certain amount of boost in the bass to flatten the response. The more boost used, the less headroom the system will have in other areas.

    Subwoofers are not designed to play a 20 Hz signal outside. Subwoofers are required to play a complex set of signals from 10 to 80 Hz in one's own system.

    Chase Home Theater spent considerable time looking at the predicted room response of literally dozens of theater rooms.

    We selected a more mild eq in the bottom end of our subwoofers, as this allows our subs to quite often play into single digits in a user's room by working with the room's acoustics and room gain. Outdoors, our subs will be appx. +/- 3 dB from 24 Hz and higher, with a natural 12 dB per octave below the 24 Hz signal. This meshes will with most systems and room gain.

    We could easily increase the boost, and show a flat response to 20 Hz, but this would rob headroom in higher frequencies while often resulting in boomy bass in one's own room.

    Our included parametric EQ will assist in rooms which don't have much room gain, and these larger, more difficult rooms will often require several subwoofers to achieve a linear response to below 20 Hz.

    5. What effect do the Bass Boost and Subsonic filters have?

    The bass boost provides a 5 dB boost at 24 Hz, and the slope starts at about 42 Hz.

    The subsonic EQ is not needed with our sealed subs, but it's effective point is 18 Hz.

  • #2
    What is the warranty on our products?

    Here is a link to our warranty page: Chase Home Theater Warranty

    The basics are as follows: Seven Years on loudspeakers and two years on subwoofer amplifiers.

    The fine print is in the link above. :)

    Comment


    • #3
      Reserved.

      Comment


      • #4
        Four posts should allow room for Q&A ... please feel free to ask any questions .... your question may well end up in the Q&A.

        I also hope this thread is a good source for someone considering our subs, and is concerned over some of the more ... outrageous ... comments from other forums.

        If you see a claim made that one of our subwoofers is actually an Alien, and it abducted the guy's dog and performed experiments on the poor animal, please post the accusation and your question, and we will answer it as well as we can. :peeping:

        Comment


        • #5
          I've been using my 18.2s for about 2 weeks now, and I occasionally notice the red light flicker. I dont notice any distress from the sub, and I shouldnt since the red light as you mention does NOT mean the sub is clipping. I have yet to see the light remain on, just flicker here and there.

          I have a separate question however about the amps. I have noticed that during music/movies scenes that include semi powerful bass (not enough to even make the light flicker) I can hear a squeeky noise coming from inside the amps. I thought maybe the bass from the subs was rattling something around, but I picked up one of the amps about 2 inches off of the sub while listening and the noise was still there. I tried using the subsonic filter in "on" but this had no effect. Has anyone else noticed something like this? It happens on both of my Dayton amps so the likelihood of both amps having the same malfunction (if indeed it is some sorta malfunction) is very small.
          :peeping:

          Comment


          • #6
            Hey Craig, can you put the specs of the SS filter and bass "boost" EQ up here in the FAQ? I know they're elsewhere, but it might be good to have it all in one place.
            Most posts made under this account probably influenced by "kool-aid". Done drinking what Chase is offering, and my current views have significantly changed.

            Comment


            • #7
              I have a quick question or two on the Blue Light...

              Here is some background info:

              Chapter 15 from "How to Train Your Dragon" is a favorite demo scene and I was trying to find my limit. I had a slight flicker of red during the demanding parts and at this point I figured I had a couple of dBs more to go but when I started up again, I had no bass even though the blue light was still shinning bright. This also happened during the first minute of "Inception" and I watched the entire movie with the 18.T not producing bass even though I thought the amp was on due to seeing the blue light.

              Next up is Chapter 4 from "Flight of the Phoenix" and the impressive crash landing. On these scenes the red light comes on completely and stays on for 1 to 3 seconds during the demanding parts but I do not lose my bass as the blue light remains on.

              So, when the input voltage is too high and/or the protection circuit kicks in does the unit turn off (no light at all)?

              If the amp isn't going to power down it seems to me that the amp should give me a visual color other than blue to represent no bass output even though the unit is technically "on"...perhaps solid red to represent no bass output.

              Settings:

              AVR is the Onkyo 805 with Audyssey OFF.
              Sub Trim Level of -2.0dB.
              Dayton Amp set to between 3 and 4...calibrated to 79dB with the test tone.
              No Bass Boost and No EQ settings.

              Master Volume is set to -10.0dB.

              Please note that I have an additional two 12" subs located nearfield along with 6 Aura Pro Bass Shakers that can fool me regarding bass output as the 18.T is located 14' from the LP....and yes, the two 12" subs will eventually be replaced with another 18.T. :biglaugh:

              Comment


              • #8
                Make sure you have the Auto/On tab on the back of the amp set to On.

                Mine shut off sometimes until I left it On not Auto sensing. Haven't had it randomly shut off since.:woo:
                -Greg

                Some people are born on third base and go through life thinking they hit a triple. - Barry Switzer

                HO's Basement Take 2

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for your reply HuskerOmaha...:cool:

                  I have that switch set to "ON"....did your unit shutoff/power down or did the blue light remain on with no bass output?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Bass Addiction
                    Thanks for your reply HuskerOmaha...:cool:

                    I have that switch set to "ON"....did your unit shutoff/power down or did the blue light remain on with no bass output?
                    When you have it set to "Auto" the sub may go into a standby mode, after a 15 min period of receiving little to no signal I believe it states such in the manual. But when that happens the blue light will remain, and the sub simply wont output any bass. Ive had this happen when streaming netflix movies thru my Xbox which is to be expected since some of the netflix material I believe is in 2 channel stereo with no LFE encoded signal. When this has happened however the sub has always kicked back on when I put in a movie or a game that has encoded lfe signal.
                    :peeping:

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Bass Addiction
                      I have a quick question or two on the Blue Light...

                      Here is some background info:

                      Chapter 15 from "How to Train Your Dragon" is a favorite demo scene and I was trying to find my limit. I had a slight flicker of red during the demanding parts and at this point I figured I had a couple of dBs more to go but when I started up again, I had no bass even though the blue light was still shinning bright. This also happened during the first minute of "Inception" and I watched the entire movie with the 18.T not producing bass even though I thought the amp was on due to seeing the blue light.

                      Next up is Chapter 4 from "Flight of the Phoenix" and the impressive crash landing. On these scenes the red light comes on completely and stays on for 1 to 3 seconds during the demanding parts but I do not lose my bass as the blue light remains on.

                      So, when the input voltage is too high and/or the protection circuit kicks in does the unit turn off (no light at all)?

                      If the amp isn't going to power down it seems to me that the amp should give me a visual color other than blue to represent no bass output even though the unit is technically "on"...perhaps solid red to represent no bass output.

                      Settings:

                      AVR is the Onkyo 805 with Audyssey OFF.
                      Sub Trim Level of -2.0dB.
                      Dayton Amp set to between 3 and 4...calibrated to 79dB with the test tone.
                      No Bass Boost and No EQ settings.

                      Master Volume is set to -10.0dB.

                      Please note that I have an additional two 12" subs located nearfield along with 6 Aura Pro Bass Shakers that can fool me regarding bass output as the 18.T is located 14' from the LP....and yes, the two 12" subs will eventually be replaced with another 18.T. :biglaugh:
                      Well now I am having the same thing happen that you described. I watched the pulse cannon scene last night from the Edward Norton's Hulk and the red flight flicked but never stayed on longer than maybe 1/3 of a second but the sub stopped putting out bass. The sub was still outputting a very small amt of bass but nothing like it was(put my hand on the sub and it was still moving just not much at all). I powered cycled and it worked again. I adjusted the sub level on my receiver to -2.5 instead of -2 and the sub went through the scene fine and I was still getting a steady 125 db from the listening position (14 ft away).
                      :peeping:

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by scoobygt68
                        When you have it set to "Auto" the sub may go into a standby mode, after a 15 min period of receiving little to no signal I believe it states such in the manual. But when that happens the blue light will remain, and the sub simply wont output any bass. Ive had this happen when streaming netflix movies thru my Xbox which is to be expected since some of the netflix material I believe is in 2 channel stereo with no LFE encoded signal. When this has happened however the sub has always kicked back on when I put in a movie or a game that has encoded lfe signal.
                        Originally posted by Bass Addiction
                        Thanks for your reply HuskerOmaha...:cool:

                        I have that switch set to "ON"....did your unit shutoff/power down or did the blue light remain on with no bass output?
                        What scooby is saying is what I experienced...Some of this was me switching around settings in Audyssey to hear what they were like, some were not bass heavy/absent and the bass was just "gone".

                        Blue light was still on. If I powered down then on again, it was back.

                        After I set it from auto to ON, haven't had one problem...200+ hours so far on these.
                        -Greg

                        Some people are born on third base and go through life thinking they hit a triple. - Barry Switzer

                        HO's Basement Take 2

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by scoobygt68
                          Well now I am having the same thing happen that you described. I watched the pulse cannon scene last night from the Edward Norton's Hulk and the red flight flicked but never stayed on longer than maybe 1/3 of a second but the sub stopped putting out bass. The sub was still outputting a very small amt of bass but nothing like it was(put my hand on the sub and it was still moving just not much at all). I powered cycled and it worked again. I adjusted the sub level on my receiver to -2.5 instead of -2 and the sub went through the scene fine and I was still getting a steady 125 db from the listening position (14 ft away).
                          Make sure you level? match your speakers and sub, and that Audyssey isn't upping your signal...but it sounds like you got it.
                          -Greg

                          Some people are born on third base and go through life thinking they hit a triple. - Barry Switzer

                          HO's Basement Take 2

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by scoobygt68
                            Well now I am having the same thing happen that you described. I watched the pulse cannon scene last night from the Edward Norton's Hulk and the red flight flicked but never stayed on longer than maybe 1/3 of a second but the sub stopped putting out bass. The sub was still outputting a very small amt of bass but nothing like it was(put my hand on the sub and it was still moving just not much at all). I powered cycled and it worked again. I adjusted the sub level on my receiver to -2.5 instead of -2 and the sub went through the scene fine and I was still getting a steady 125 db from the listening position (14 ft away).
                            Hey scoobygt68,

                            Yep, that is exactly what is happening to me. I will play that scene tonight and see what I get. BTW, 125dB from 14' on an 18.T is very stout indeed...:eek: What is your the Dayton amp gain knob set to?

                            TIA

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Bass Addiction
                              Hey scoobygt68,

                              Yep, that is exactly what is happening to me. I will play that scene tonight and see what I get. BTW, 125dB from 14' on an 18.T is very stout indeed...:eek: What is your the Dayton amp gain knob set to?

                              TIA
                              I actually have a pair of 18.2s 1 in the front left corner of the room and the other in the back right corner of the room (room is about 25' X 17' X 7.5' ) . I have the sub gains adjusted to where I get the same spl db reading at both my front and back rows of seating(atleast within a couple db). The front sub is 14' away from my front middle listening position, and 17.5 ft away from the back middle listening position. However the back sub is roughly 12' from the front middle listening position and only 5-6' from the back middle listening position. I therefore have different gain levels on the subs. The front 18.2 is at just below half... so id say like 4.5. The back 18.2 is at about 3.
                              :peeping:

                              Comment

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